Archive for the ‘New Mexico’ Category

The Ghost Ranch

Monday, September 27th, 2010
Where I was born and where and how I have lived is unimportant. It is what I have done with where I have been that should be of interest.

-- Georgia O'Keeffe

In the early-to-mid Twentieth Century, the Ghost Ranch near Abiquiu was used as a summer home by Georgia O'Keeffe, an artist best known for her paintings of flowers, rocks, shells, animal bones, and landscapes, in particular, those of Northern New Mexico and the Ghost Ranch.

The name "Ghost Ranch," or the local name, "El Rancho de los Brujos," was derived from the many tales of ghosts and legends of cattle rustler hangings in the Ranch's long history.

Located 65 miles northwest of Santa Fe, the Ghost Ranch today is a retreat and education center run by the Presbyterian Church. The 21,000-acre ranch includes several hiking trails that are open to the public - at no cost.

During our visit we hiked the three-mile (round-trip) trail to Chimney Rock, one of the most popular destinations on the ranch. Except for a couple of short steep sections, the hike was fairly easy.


Less than half-way up the ridge we saw the first views of Chimney Rock. The trail ends on a mesa just behind Chimney Rock, and provides an up-close, birds-eye view of the towering monolith. You’ll also have commanding 360-degree views of the ranch, the Piedra Lumbre basin and the surrounding mountains.




With the abundance of red rock, the gold and yellow hues of the mesas and odd rock formations, and just the general beauty of the area, it’s easy to see why O'Keeffe was so easily inspired by these landscapes.

Trail: Chimney Rock
RT Distance: 3 miles
Elevation Gain: 600 feet
Max Elevation: 7,100 feet


























Jeff
HikingintheSmokys.com Detailed trail information for the Great Smoky Mountains; trail descriptions, key features, pictures, maps, elevation profiles, news, books and more.

Santa Fe: “The City Different”

Saturday, September 25th, 2010
Although we seldom travel to urban areas as a vacation destination - simply because we prefer the great outdoors - Santa Fe is a notable exception. Being a history buff, a bit of a foodie, and an obvious outdoor lover, Santa Fe is ground zero for all three pursuits. It’s from among these qualities that earned the city its nickname; “The City Different”.

The 2010 TripAdvisor Travelers' Choice Awards rated Santa Fe as the #2 U.S. destination in the Relaxation & Spa category, #9 for Great Food & Wine, and #10 for Culture and Sightseeing. Also, a recent poll conducted by Conde Nast Traveler Magazine rated Santa Fe as the third most popular travel destination in the U.S.

Founded between 1607 and 1610, Santa Fe is the second oldest city in America. Sitting at 7,000 feet in the foothills of the southern Rocky Mountains, it’s also the highest and oldest state capital in the United States.

For almost 400 years the heart of downtown Santa Fe has been the Plaza where the rich history of American Indian and Spanish culture blends together. The Plaza was also the final destination for wagon trains making the 800-mile journey from Independence, Missouri via the Old Santa Fe Trail.

The Palace of the Governors on the Plaza was built by the Spanish as a government building in 1610, and remains the nation's oldest continuously used public building. Inside is an art and history museum, and under its historic portal Native American artists sell authentic art, crafts and jewelry, as they have been on an almost daily basis since 1939.

Just south of the Plaza on East De Vargas Street is purported to be the oldest house in the U.S. Although it was built around 1646, there are two other homes in the Northeast that claim to be older.

Our most recent visit happened to occur during the 298th annual Fiesta de Santa Fe, which celebrates the peaceful resettlement of the “City of Holy Faith” in 1692. The Fiesta includes ceremonies, parades, processions, entertainment, Masses, as well as the burning of Zozobra, or "Old Man Gloom", a 50-foot tall marionette that symbolizes the hardships and despair of the past year. Mariachi bands are also an important aspect of the four-month long celebration. We happened upon one at an outdoor café on Burro Alley one day as they sang a beautiful song in Spanish. Although neither of us understood the words or the meaning, there was a woman sitting near the band that began to weep.

Santa Fe is, without a doubt, a gastronomical Mecca. In fact, I was looking forward to the food almost as much as I did the hiking. While in town we ate at the Guadalupe Café, The Shed, the Blue Corn Café and the Santa Fe Brewing Company. Although each restaurant fulfilled our lofty expectations, The Shed was just outstanding. If you ever have the opportunity to visit here, be sure to try the green chili stew.

The Blue Corn Café and the Santa Fe Brewing Company are both local brewpubs offering great Northern New Mexican cuisine and tasty brews, but the beer at the Marble Brewery Tap Room was the clear winner among the three. Both times we visited the Tap Room we watched the crowds attending the Fiesta while sipping oatmeal stouts and amber ales from the second story balcony that overlooks the Plaza. The brewery also serves pizzas from an adjacent restaurant, but we didn’t try any.

There were a couple of other restaurants that we had on our radar, such as Tia Sophia’s and Santa Luna, but we just didn’t have enough time or space in our stomachs.

The big question that’s asked at many restaurants in this part of the country is whether you prefer red or green chile. If heat intensity is an issue, note that green is generally hotter, but red is a little earthy or pungent tasting and usually not as hot. If you’re undecided you can always just go Christmas, meaning you would like both on your dish.

Within close proximity to Santa Fe are many outdoor opportunities; including cycling, rafting, horseback riding, fishing, as well as skiing at several nearby resorts. Numerous hiking opportunities also abound in the Santa Fe National Forest, Bandelier National Monument, Kasha-Katuwe Tent Rocks National Monument, as well as the 1.5 million-acre Carson National Forest which includes the highest point in New Mexico – the 13,161-foot Wheeler Peak.

If you’ve never been there, Santa Fe is an awesome destination for many reasons. You could easily spend several days to more than a week there and never do anything more than once.

Over the next several days I’ll be sharing trip reports from several hikes we did around the Santa Fe area.














Jeff
HikingintheSmokys.com Detailed trail information for the Great Smoky Mountains; trail descriptions, key features, pictures, maps, elevation profiles, news, books and more.

755 Feet below the ground

Friday, September 24th, 2010
At the northern end of the Guadalupe Mountains in New Mexico, and lying more than 750 feet below the surface of the ground, is Carlsbad Caverns National Park.

Ansel Adams said that Carlsbad Caverns is “something that should not exist in relation to human beings. Something that is as remote as the galaxy, incomprehensible as a nightmare, and beautiful in spite of everything.”

Will Rogers called it the "Grand Canyon with a roof on it".

After taking the 75-story elevator down to the lunchroom area we began our self-guided tour of the Big Room.

A one-mile paved loop guided us around the perimeter of the natural limestone chamber. The appropriately named Big Room is roughly 8.2 acres in size, making it one of the largest chambers in the world. Put another way, you could fit almost 6.2 football fields within the chamber!

During our “hike” we encountered the most park rangers I’ve ever seen on one trail. Mainly to ensure that no one gets off course, or tries to damage or steal any part of the cave, the rangers were also there to answer any questions you might have along the way.

Even in the heat of summer you may want to take a jacket or sweater with you. The cave has a constant year-round temperature of 56 degrees.

Although the NPS did a great job on using front and back lighting to highlight the caves most interesting features and formations, I still had trouble getting good photos with my camera. Here are a couple of the better ones that turned out relatively decent:




Even Kathy, who doesn't particularly like caves, thought the tour was well worth it.

One other tidbit about the cave: More than a quarter million Mexican free-tailed bats spiral out of the Natural Entrance each evening during the warm months of the year in search of moths and insects. It’s one of the leading spectator attractions for many visitors.

By the way, if you suffer from chiroptophobia, or the fear of bats, don’t worry. Very few bats, if any, ever make it to the Big Room.














Jeff
HikingintheSmokys.com Detailed trail information for the Great Smoky Mountains; trail descriptions, key features, pictures, maps, elevation profiles, news, books and more.

Four must-do Hikes near Santa Fe

Sunday, December 13th, 2009
A couple years ago Kathy and I spent a week in Santa Fe to take in the rich history and culture of the region, and of course, to check out some hiking in the Southern Rockies.

Among the 8 or 9 trails we tackled, there were four must-do hikes that I would recommend for anyone considering a visit to the area. The following are some photos from those hikes.

Canyon Trail in Tent Rocks National Monument
If you’re spending more than a day or two in Santa Fe, be sure to visit the somewhat unknown Kasha-Katuwe Tent Rocks National Monument. This is truly a remarkable place located about 40 miles southwest of Santa Fe.

The oddly cone-shaped formations giving the area its name are the products of volcanic eruptions that occurred 6 to 7 million years ago that left pumice, ash and tuff deposits over 1,000 feet thick.

The monument includes a national recreation trail that provides up-close views of the tent rocks, as well as the opportunity to pass through a narrow canyon.

The hike we took was a combination of the Cave Loop and the Canyon Trails - for a total hike of 3.2 miles. The more difficult Canyon Trail is a one-way trek through the narrow canyon before making a steep 630-foot climb to the mesa top. From here you can look down upon the tent rocks. You’ll also have excellent views of the Sangre de Cristo, Jemez, Sandia mountains and the Rio Grande Valley.



Wheeler Peak
One of our main objectives for this trip was to climb Wheeler Peak, the highest point in New Mexico. With a roundtrip trek of 16 miles and a climb of almost 4000 feet, this would be the toughest hike either of us had ever attempted at that time.

Wheeler Peak is about 90 miles north of Santa Fe in the Sangre De Cristo (Blood of Christ) range, in the Carson National Forest. To reach the summit we took the Bull-of-the-Woods Trail that begins out of the Taos Ski Area.

Climbing in late May, there were still a few snow covered areas on the trail. In fact, we were warned that there would be a section below the tree-line where we would most likely run into some problems. Although that section still had quite a bit of snow, we were able to pass it with only a little extra work.

Prior to reaching Wheeler, the trail crosses over Mount Walter. At 13,141 feet, it’s the second highest named summit in New Mexico, but it’s not usually considered an independent peak as it only has about 80 feet of topographic prominence. From here the path leads you along a fairly narrow ridgeline to your final destination. It was here that we experienced some extremely high winds. As a precautionary measure I held onto Kathy just to make sure she didn’t get blown off the mountain! Other than the wind and cool temps at the top, the weather was otherwise perfect.



Pecos National Historical Park
Although some may not consider it to be a true hike, there is a 1.25 mile self-guided trail in the Pecos National Historical Park that shouldn’t be overlooked. The park is located about 25 miles east of Santa Fe.

The trail winds through the ruins of the Pecos Pueblo which is thought to have been established sometime during the 14th century. The original mission that was on the site was destroyed during the Pueblo Revolt of 1680, but a smaller church was built in 1717. The massive adobe walls and arched doorways of this later church still stand on top of the earlier church's stone foundation.

In addition to exploring the old mission, the trail also passes many other ruins from the pueblo, including a "kiva". The park allows you to descend a ladder to reach the small room-sized underground ceremonial chamber.


Tsankawi Loop in Bandelier National Monument
We hiked a couple of short trails the day we spent in Bandelier National Monument. One trail that is very easy to overlook, but one that definitely shouldn’t, is the 1.5 mile Tsankawi Loop located in the detached portion of the monument known as the Tsankawi unit. The 1.5 mile loop provides access to numerous unexcavated ruins, cave dwellings carved into the soft tuff, as well as several petroglyphs from the Ancestral Tewa Pueblo that lived here until the 16th century. Many sections of the trail are worn 8 to 12 inches into solid rock! Petroglyphs are common throughout this area; however, the meanings of many are unknown to present-day Indians. The trail also requires hikers to climb up and down several wooden ladders.

Bandelier is roughly 30 miles northeast of Santa Fe.




Santa Fe
Santa Fe is an awesome town, and is probably now my favorite urban destination. Being several centuries old, the city is steeped in Native, Hispanic, Spanish and early-American history and culture (as is nearby Taos). If you love history at all, you could spend several days just checking out all the sites in the area, including the oldest house in the United States. The town is also known for its Indian Market, art galleries, museums and its Southwestern cuisine.

There’s also an excellent brewpub in town called the Blue Corn Café. With two locations in town, I would recommend going to the downtown location. If you’re lucky enough, grab a table on the balcony. Both the beer and the New Mexican style food are outstanding.


Santa Fe-Taos Hiking Guide:















Jeff
HikingintheSmokys.com Detailed information on trails in the Smoky Mountains; includes trail descriptions, key features, pictures, video, maps, elevation profiles, news, hiking gear store, and more.